The 12 Breakthrough Sustainable Moments You Need To See From CPHFW
The often overlooked yet undeniably cool, niche sister of the big four fashion weeks made a subtle yet iconic mark on Spring/Summer '25 as Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) wrapped up earlier this month. Known for its strict sustainability requirements, which every applying designer must meet to qualify, it’s no wonder we have our eyes glued to Copenhagen every season. Not only is it the most sustainable fashion week in the mainstream spotlight, but it also serves as a stage for showcasing Danish fashion trends, history, and cultural production methods.
With a minimum of 19 “action points” across six key areas, CPHFW’s brand standards include having a formal sustainability strategy, ensuring that at least 60% of collections are made from certified or recycled materials, and adhering to guidelines for working conditions, consumer education, and show production (for example no single use props can be used at shows!). These requirements help to alleviate stress on our planet and ensure that our innate human sense of beauty isn’t held hostage by the industry's unethical practices and obsession with novelty. In a way, initiatives like the ones at Copenhagen Fashion Week allow us freedom to focus on artfulness and creativity in fashion, which mainstream Fashion Weeks scarcely prioritize.
CPHFW’s commitment to sustainability not only pushes designers to be more inclusive and innovative but also inspires us to view these collections as starting points for our own creativity–not just as the next hot thing to buy. As you read through this list of brands and moments that stood out to us this season, we urge you to consider how the art of fashion can be a catalyst for personal expression, a tool for mindful consumption, and a means to foster a deeper connection with the world around us.
OpéraSPORT
OpéraSPORT drew inspiration from the Exillion Garden, blending Italian Renaissance and French Baroque influences with vibrant floral colors. The collection exclusively features recycled and organic fabrics, with a cheeky inclusion of panty-esque hot pants. Designed with practicality in mind, the collection also expands into swimwear (perhaps they got the memo that we’re wearing swimwear as clothing now, a lá Bella Hadid wearing boxers as shorts or Tankini Girl Summer). As a freaky little fashion girl myself, I’ve been experimenting with wearing bikini tops as tops and even styling them as belts and other accessorial additions to outfits.
Rolf Ekroth
Rolf Ekroth’s "Lavatanssit" reimagines traditional Finnish dance pavilion attire. The show features tailored suits, airy dresses, and statement pieces like life vest tops decorated with romantic floral prints, but our favorite of all are these handcrafted dandelion pants which feel like Art Hoe gone couture. Rolf Ekroth used recycled and organic fabrics and handcrafted lace to bring this collection to life and worked with brands like Kalevala and Novita, who contribute recycled silver jewelry and sustainable knitwear.
Deadwood
As Sustainable Baddie’s in-house emo, Deadwood’s collection will haunt my dreams and linger on my Pinterest board forever and ever. Staying true to their aesthetics and ethics, 80% of their collection’s materials are upcycled or recycled and consciously sourced.
Alectra Rothschild/Masculina's "You are wasted here, you are a star," explores the marginalization of trans people while celebrating queer and trans intimacy and love through boudoir-inspired nightgowns and clubwear. The brand used Oleatex, a leather alternative made from recycled polyester and olives, deadstock lace and silks, and upcycled showpieces—as seen in the opening look (our fave).
Joao Maraschin
The foundation of Joao Maraschin’s new collection was, ironically, last season's wardrobe and a year of nomadic living. “Road Trip” reflects a year of travel and exploration and embodies circularity by reimagining pieces from previous collections and integrating them into new designs. The collection also used recycled bottle fibers and TENCEL.
Peter Jensen
Peter Jensen returned to fashion this season with his new line, Yours Truly. The collection is a personal project that reflects his creative evolution and incorporates repurposed materials like Trader Joe’s tea towels and vintage wigs, alongside customized vintage trench coats and floral dresses. In a tribute to women over 55, the show featured models aged 55 to 87 in garments that played with tulle, volume, and pops of print and color.
(di)vision
“The Dream of Steam City” by (di)vision merges maximalism with nostalgic elements, using upcycled materials and collaborative designs to create a sustainable, fantasy-inspired world. While somewhat impractical, it reminds me of the late 2000s and early 2010s trend of wearing stuffed animals on kandi necklaces (a subtler DIY idea if you want to channel this look).
Rabens Saloner
Centered around the idea that “a wardrobe should be a list of the best ingredients,” Rabens Saloner blended utility with femininity in their SS25 collection. The collection incorporates adaptable garments, bright and positive color palettes, and multifunctional designs like adjustable drawcords and reversible elements. This indigo t-shirt dress feels like a muted nod to blokecore.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Move over Paris Olympics, Baum und Pferdgarten’s Office Olympics are here! Merging sportswear trends with office attire, this collection shows us how we can add a bit of fun into professional spaces while making casual garments like sweatpants and jerseys suitable for different occasions. The brand focuses on minimizing its environmental impact by using fewer resources wherever possible, prioritizing transparency, and setting yearly sustainability goals.
School of Textiles
Today's fashion students are not only shaping the future of fashion but also redefining how we think about clothing arts in relation to climate change and garment worker rights. Among the six themes presented by the Swedish School of Textiles, Abbas Mandegar's collection, "Made in Pakistan," stood out to us the most. He integrated sewing tools like scissors, snaps, and pins into his designs to reflect his personal journey from child laborer to designer.
Marimekko
Marimekko showcased “The Anatomy of a Flower,” a collection full of their iconic abstract floral patterns with an emphasis on feminine elements and “happy contradictions.” The brand collaborated with artist Petra Börner, whose artworks are crafted using eco-friendly methods at Marimekko’s Helsinki textile printing factory.
Sinead O’Dwyer
London-based Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer chose to show in Copenhagen this year (susty recognizes susty). Known for prioritizing inclusivity, O’Dwyer featured models of varying body types and made history by casting the first blind model, while also providing an audio description for blind and low-vision guests.
Stem
Zero-waste textile innovators Stem know how to make craftsmanship and weaving techniques apparent in their aesthetic. Through an emphasis on asymmetrical fringe and woven structures, they’ve turned certified natural and recycled fibers into a responsible six-look collection.
What was your favorite moment from Copenhagen Fashion Week?